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Home Photo Insipiration

This designer is giving the ancient art of henna a modern makeover

January 13, 2021
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This designer is giving the ancient art of henna a modern makeover
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Written by Rebecca Cairns, CNN

With a historical past spanning millennia throughout the Center East, North Africa, and South Asia, henna is steeped in custom and cultural rituals. The pure dye is often used to create short-term, intricate physique artwork for non secular festivals and celebrations, akin to weddings.

Now, Dubai-based designer Azra Khamissa is on a mission to provide the traditional apply a contemporary makeover.

A pioneer of hanging minimalist designs, Khamissa has constructed a following of greater than 100,000 on Instagram, and her inventive concepts have led to model collaborations with trend homes together with Gucci and Fendi.

Her purpose is to create henna designs that align with trend developments, together with henna merchandise that may be bought by way of main cosmetics retailers. Khamissa wish to see henna worn on a regular basis — not simply on particular events.

Khamissa's minimalist designs include line drawings of faces, flowers and landscapes.

Khamissa’s minimalist designs embrace line drawings of faces, flowers and landscapes. Credit score: Abdulla El Maz

An historical artwork

Henna is constructed from plant leaves. Its origins as a beauty product are unknown, however it has “been used for 1000’s of years for beauty functions” together with coloring hair and nails, and adorning fingers and ft, says Ade Solihat, a lecturer and researcher of Arab Research at Universitas Indonesia.

Throughout Khamissa’s childhood, henna was typically used for household celebrations like Eid, she says. However as she bought older and developed her sense of fashion, she would “dread” events the place she needed to adorn herself with flowery designs.

Khamissa’s perspective to henna began to vary at a buddy’s marriage ceremony in 2017. Getting ready for the ceremony, she experimented by adorning the middle of her palm with a disc (a design known as rubeya, in Arabic) and coloring her fingertips (rawayeb, in Arabic). Often “solely grandmothers” would put on this design, says Khamissa, however its easy, daring minimalism appealed to her.

Per week later, Khamissa attended a photoshoot for her eponymous purse model, the place the photographer captured her henna-covered fingers. When Khamissa noticed the pictures, she started to see henna in “a special mild.” Subseqently, she launched her profession as a henna artist.

Dubai-based Azra Khamissa wants to make henna an element of everyday fashion.

Dubai-based Azra Khamissa desires to make henna a component of on a regular basis trend. Credit score: Aqib Anwar

“I simply stored exploring completely different conventional designs, after which began including my very own contact to them,” she says.

Khamissa assessments new designs on her personal fingers first. When she runs out of area, her sister and grandmother volunteer their fingers. Her grandmother is not all the time a fan of her trendy interpretations — however when she responds positively, Khamissa is aware of she’s onto a winner: “No matter she likes, I do know is a superb success, as a result of that is the actual conventional eye assembly up with one thing new and completely different.”

Minimalist and trendy

In her work, Khamissa reinterprets conventional ornate floral patterns as pared-back line drawings of single flowers, and replaces complicated mandalas with easy geometric shapes. Some designs pay homage to conventional North African and Arabic motifs, whereas others — topographical outlines, summary desert landscapes, and politically impressed flags and phrases — are her personal distinctive creations.

Khamissa says the short-term nature of henna — which lasts round two weeks — permits for extra “loopy” and experimental patterns, like all-over leopard print. For many who do not wish to ink themselves completely, henna provides extra flexibility and “makes tattoo tradition a bit extra inclusive,” Khamissa says.

Some of Khamissa's designs are inspired by nature, including Dubai's desert landscapes.

A few of Khamissa’s designs are impressed by nature, together with Dubai’s desert landscapes. Credit score: Azra Khamissa

She is not alone in taking a contemporary method to henna. Fellow UAE-based henna artist Amreen Wahid attracts delicate floral designs with a up to date really feel, and beauty bloggers have used henna to create freckles and sweetness spots.

Solihat, the Arab Research specialist, says henna is now not tied to “symbolic and sacred meanings.” Trendy approaches assist it to “cross borders, ethnicities, and identities,” she says, including that it’s now standard amongst demographics and not using a henna heritage, “particularly among the many city younger technology.”

Magnificence retailer henna

It isn’t simply Khamissa’s designs which might be trendy — she desires to replace the best way henna is bought, too.

Usually, recent henna paste, or the uncooked elements to make it, can be found solely at specialist shops.

“There’s an enormous hole out there,” says Khamissa. “You possibly can’t discover henna in a Sephora or Boots, main pharmacies or magnificence shops. I wish to make it extra accessible.”

Khamissa hopes her designs will inspire people to embrace henna and wear it in a more casual, contemporary way.

Khamissa hopes her designs will encourage individuals to embrace henna and put on it in a extra informal, up to date means. Credit score: Azra Khamissa

However there is a main barrier — henna paste has a shelf-life of only a few days. Most off-the-shelf henna pastes comprise preservatives and a few comprise PPD (paraphenylenediamine), an artificial dye that may trigger critical allergic reactions.

An answer to the shelf-life drawback could be mini-freezers, which might hold henna paste recent for as much as six months, says Khamissa. She is contemplating designing her personal freezers to permit her to scale up and promote henna in cosmetics shops.

Within the meantime, Khamissa began promoting a non-toxic henna kit in Might 2020. Different henna specialists, akin to Dubai Henna, have established on-line platforms, reflecting rising demand.

Khamissa hopes that by making high-quality henna extra accessible, extra girls will likely be impressed to get inventive with physique artwork of their on a regular basis styling. “Henna ought to be like getting your nails achieved, your hair achieved, your make-up achieved for a glance. Including henna simply tops it off superbly.”



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