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Forget Shoes, It’s About the Lipstick: Hollywood Stylists Share Lessons Learned From Working in a Pandemic

January 14, 2021
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Forget Shoes, It’s About the Lipstick: Hollywood Stylists Share Lessons Learned From Working in a Pandemic
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Business execs reveal what they’ve discovered from dressing their movie star shoppers remotely for Zoom: much less time with garments (but in addition much less packaging waste), extra on-the-fly shoots.

“We’re working in a waist-up world,” says veteran stylist Cristina Ehrlich, who tends to Laura Dern, Uzo Aduba and Rachel Brosnahan, relating to essentially the most seen results of the pandemic placing the crimson carpet on pause. “It is not about, ‘Do the footwear match?’ It is extra about, ‘What coloration lipstick you might be sporting?’ ” For a latest digital vogue unfold, Ehrlich styled Brosnahan in Dolce & Gabbana, Prabal Gurung and Christian Siriano with no shoe to be seen because the actress shined in uncharacteristically dusky eye make-up and a killer lip line.

For stylist Rose Forde in London, working through the time of COVID-19 means taking a step again from the suited-up appears to be like often seen on the crimson carpet on her male shoppers, together with Paul Mescal, Joe Alwyn and Chiwetel Ejiofor and The Crown‘s Josh O’Connor. “I am most likely in additional of a fortunate place than some female-focused stylists,” says Forde. “I’ve a chance to be extra nonchalant however nonetheless elegant, a bit extra undone. But it surely’s nonetheless about creating thrilling moments.” Working example: final fall’s digital premiere of season 4 of The Crown. O’Connor turned up in an off-the-cuff unbuttoned topper and turtleneck created by Loewe’s designer J.W. Anderson, which stood in sharp distinction to the double-breasted fits that had been a mainstay of the actor’s wardrobing as Prince Charles within the collection.

It is not merely that star shoppers are being seen solely on laptop screens and iPhones but in addition that stylists, who usually work carefully in particular person, now discover themselves doing all the things by way of e-mail and Zoom classes.

“We often translate one thing from runway to an individual with some tailoring or switching items up — you are getting all the things in your studio and then you definately get a really feel for the clothes,” says Erica Cloud, who noticed her working relationship with multihyphenate Dan Levy culminate in his beautiful Emmy sweep, the place his Thom Browne go well with look with a pleated skirt was put collectively from afar whereas the actor was house in Canada. As of late, designers ship gadgets on to the expertise. “The primary time that the shopper is seeing it’s the first time you are seeing it,” Cloud says, including, “The toughest half isn’t having [clothes] cross by means of your fingers.”

Stylists additionally discover themselves making do with much less as the same old racks of incoming fashions have slowed to a trickle. Nonetheless, it’s nonetheless all about creating visible influence regardless of the odds, notes Adam Ballheim, citing his shopper Machine Gun Kelly’s first look with girlfriend Megan Fox on the AMA crimson carpet in November (he in a white Balmain tattoo-baring model of a go well with; she in inexperienced Azzi & Osta with an asymmetrical crop high and mini). Within the early days of 2020’s lockdown, “a variety of the European vogue homes could not ship something for some time, and with delays basically, it prompted me to be a bit bit extra purposeful and pared down in what I used to be doing, which is a lesson that I do wish to take ahead,” Ballheim says. “There’s a variety of waste in what we do, usually, between delivery one million issues which are by no means going to be worn and messengers and the packaging.”

With crimson carpets and conventional media avenues shut down, stylists even have turn into impromptu photograph producers as they endeavor to get their work seen, says Christina Pacelli, stylist for Laverne Cox, The Flight Attendant‘s Merle Dandridge and Isaiah Crews from Nickelodeon’s Facet Hustle.

“As shoppers have been inching their manner again to press excursions, I am advising them, ‘Let’s take our personal pictures,’ and am getting them outfitted with the correct lighting, backdrop and placement to snap magnificence pictures and head-to-toe imagery, and we’re banging them out,” Pacelli says. “When I haven’t got knowledgeable photographer, I am additionally taking the pictures on my iPhone 11.”

Jordan Boothe, who kinds actors Jeremy Pope and Ashton Sanders, says group is his go-to mode within the pandemic. “Usually, being the stylist, you are engaged on a number of several types of initiatives — movie star, business, editorial and private initiatives — and now you possibly can’t be on set for any of them,” he says. “Even when I am sitting on a name or FaceTime for 12, 16, 20 hours, you must have a bit little bit of time for your self. So I am including to my to-do record and preserving myself organized and ensuring that I am checking each single a kind of bullets.”

New York-based Michael Fisher, who kinds Hugh Jackman, James Corden and Nicholas Braun, says work has slowed to at least one or two jobs a month. “We’re simply sending a field of garments and letting them gown themselves or FaceTiming,” he says. “A whole lot of my guys form of hate doing fittings anyway, so if there are digital press junkets, the blokes are like, ‘Nice, I will simply put on this shirt.’ “

Fisher provides that he really loved slowing down for a time, whilst he saved in contact along with his shoppers. “It was good to step away from all of it and soak up what was taking place on the planet between the election and the Black Lives Matter protests,” he says. “And each time I began getting form of getting crabby and irritated and, like, ‘Oh, this sucks for me,’ it was, like, actually? Does it suck for you? As a result of it is a lot more durable for thus many different individuals. I actually cannot complain about something.”

This story first appeared in a January stand-alone subject of The Hollywood Reporter journal. To obtain the journal, click here to subscribe.

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